I’ll share with you my favorite method for sewing on buttons to a sweater & some tips for making it perfect!
 
1.  After all of the knitting is completed, block the garment, weave in ends, lay it on a flat surface and place split ring markers where you want each button to go.  Start by laying the button hole band on top and marking each hole on the band underneath.  Then flop the button hole band out of the way and use a tape measure to measure the distance between the center of each button.  Make adjustments here so they are evenly spaced.
 
2. Measure out a piece of yarn (the same that used for the buttonband usually works fine) about 2 times the length of the buttonband. 

TIP 1    Shank buttons are a knitter’s best friend.  Shank buttons with a metal or plastic loop sticking out of the back of the button, can be pushed in between stitches so it protrudes out on the WS, making it super easy to catch. 
 
3.  With WS facing, use a thin tapestry needle and weave in the end over the first inch or so into the band seam so the end is flush with the seam. [photo 1]
 
TIP 2    If you’re using thick yarn and you have small buttonholes, you will need to:
     *  Use the thinnest tapestry needle you can find, or
     *  Use a sewing needle and split the yarn so you are only using 2 plies, or   
     *  Change buttons to a shank button which will accommodate a larger needle  

4.  Weave yarn from the side seam towards the middle of the band to the spot for the first button. 

5.  *Insert tapestry needle through a stitch, then through the shank or button holes and through another stitch on the other side and pull yarn through loosely, just enough to hold the button in place without it slipping away.   Don’t tighten it up yet.  Rep from * but this time tug yarn firmly to secure button to fabric.  [photo 2].

6.  Weave yarn across band to the seam, spiral weave it up the seam until you reach the height for the next button then weave into the spot where you want your button. 
 
TIP 3  Make sure the spiral weave has some give to it so it doesn’t change the lay of the band.  You don’t want a tight piece of yarn running the length of the garment.  It should mimic the flexibility of the fabric.  Since you’re only using the seam as  place to carry the yarn, you don’t need to go into every stitch.  Just spiral it around stitches so that there are no long pieces and it looks tidy. 
 
7.  Continue working this way until all buttons are sewn on.  After the last button is finished, weave back to the seam, weave in the last of the yarn tail and cut excess yarn.  [photo 3].

I hope you like this method. It definitely save time cutting and weaving in ends, it's sturdier and takes less loops than using thread, and the back looks tidy and almost invisible.  

I'd love to hear what you think or if you have a different favorite method!

Donna

If you've knit a sweater with saddles, there are times when the saddle is worked separately or as an extension of a sleeve and needs to be sewn to the back and front of the sweater.  Since this is a very visible area, and since the saddle is an interesting design element, the eye gravitates to the line between the saddle and rest of the sweater.  Yes, that line is the seam.  To have your seam look its best, it is important that your calculations for seaming are even, consistent and correct so that the saddle lies flat.

Before seaming, place the pieces with the saddle on top and the front or back below it.  Stretch the saddle just slightly so it fits well without bunching up. 

1.  Count the number of rows in the saddle.  In the photo below there are 23 rows. 

2.  Count the number of stitches that fall within the saddle (the area that is to be seamed).  In this case there are 17 sts. 

3.  The difference is 6 rows.  This means that when you are seaming, you will need to seam one stitch to 2 rows (or go under 2 bars when using Mattress stitch ) 6 times.  To find a good ratio, divide the number of stitches by the difference.  In this case it is 2.83.  So for every 2.8 sts you'll want to seam 2 rows or about 2 rows every 2 or 3 stitches.  Just bounce back between 2 and 3 to find a middle meeting ground.  If you had an even number, like 3, you would seam one stitch to one row twice, then on the third stitch you would go under 2 bars.   For our 2.8 example, here is one example of a working sequence:
1 st =  1 bar
1 st = 1 bar
1 st = 2 bars
1 st = 1 bar
1 st = 2 bar
5 sts = 7 bars or 7 rows.  Continuing to repeat this sequence gives you
10 sts = 14 bars
15 sts = 21 bars. then work the top two again for a grand total of:
17 sts = 23 bars

If you play around with your sequence you can increase or decreases the numbers.  For example if we use:
1 st =  1 bar
1 st = 2 bars
1 st = 1 bar
1 st = 1 bar
1 st = 2 bar
5 sts = 7 bars or 7 rows.  Continuing to repeat this sequence gives you
10 sts = 14 bars
15 sts = 21 bars. then work the top two again for a grand total of:
17 sts = 24 bars

As a general rule, MOST of the time, you can use a ratio of 5:6 or 5:7,  Meaning 5 stitches for every 6 bars or 5 stitches for every 7 bars.  For a 5:6 ratio, use 1 stitch to 1 bar 4 times then on the 5th stitch, go under 2 bars. 

You could simply use your stitch gauge per inch and your row gauge per inch for seaming larger areas.  But for a saddle, it's easy enough to count the exact number of stitches and rows being used for a more exact sequence.  

So now that you know how many bars to go under for each stitch, here's how you do it:

1.  Bottom piece:  Insert tapestry needle down into the center of the first stitch, and come up through the center of the V of the second stitch.  
2.  Top piece:  Insert tapestry needle under the first bar.
3.  Return to bottom piece:  Insert tapestry needle down in the center of the second stitch through the exact same place you came out of on step 1, and come up through the center of the V of the next stitch.
4.  Top piece:  Insert tapestry needle into the exact space that you came out of, go under two bars and pull yarn through.  Continue to toggle between top and bottom pieces, following your sequence.  

The stitch that you're going into on the bottom piece, is the center of the first V below the bind off edge.  So the entire bind off stitch remains inside the seam.  The bar that you're picking up on the top piece, is the bar that runs between the first and second stitch, so that the entire column of first stitches remains inside the seam.  This ensures that the seam will hold and will not gap open.

Once finished, you will have maintained an even sequence across the seam.  The saddle will lie flat and the front/back will lie flat.  There will be no pulling or bunching of either piece and the seam will look nice and uniform.  It's a seam that will make you proud!

References: 
Buss, Katharina.  Big Book of Knitting.  New York, NY:  Sterling Publishing Co., 2001.

Holladay, Arenda.  “Seams – Part 3”  Cast On Feb-Apr 2009:  pp. 64-66.

I'm so addicted to slip stitch knitting!  It’s fast, complex looking, incredibly vast, and simple to do.  

Slip Stitch is defined as a stitch passed from one needle to the other without being worked.  

Slip Stitch knitting uses slip stitches to create designs or texture, or both.  

Note - Mosaic knitting and Brioche knitting are subsets of slip stitch knitting, but they are not covered in this article. 

A slip stitch is probably the easiest technique in all of knitting, and certainly one of the fastest and most useful.  It can be used to create a dense fabric, as an alternate way to work stranded colorwork, to create a decorative design on a fabric or as part of a structural role.  

Stitches can be slipped knitwise or purlwise.  When slipping stitches, always slip them purlwise unless instructed otherwise by the pattern.  When you move a stitch from the left needle to the right needle purlwise, you do not change the orientation of the stitch.  This means that a “normal” stitch has two legs, and the right leg rests to the front of the needle and the left leg rests to the back of the needle.  The needle goes through the middle of the two legs.  When you slip a stitch purlwise, it ends up on the right hand needle with the right leg still resting to the front of the needle.  To do this, insert your right hand needle into the first stitch on your left hand needle from right to left, as if you were going to purl the stitch.  Don’t purl it.  Just move it from one needle to the next.  (If the pattern says to slip knitwise, you will insert needle from right to left as if to knit and you will form a twisted stitch.)

In addition to slipping knitwise or purlwise, you can slip more than one stitch at a time,  you can slip the same stitch again on the next row which stretches it, creating a visible vertical strand and compressing the fabric, you can slip a stitch so it draws diagonally or horizontally.  

There are two very different applications for slip stitch knitting:    

First, in a single color, slip stitches are used to either create dense, thicker fabrics which are durable and wonderful for coats,  hats, mittens, placemats, outerwear sweaters, or just highly texturized sweaters.  The purpose of slipping the stitch is to create a visibly decorative pattern.  

Yarn can be held in the back, (wyib) as you slip the stitch to let only the slipped stitch show.  When working with a single color, it is used when you want an elongated vertical stitch slipped over more than one row.  Yarn can also held in the front (wyif) as you slip the stitch which carries a horizontal strand across the bottom of the stitch being slipped.  This provides a woven look and takes on a very interesting look when worked in more than color.  (See Plectics above).

When you use more than one color, you can create all types of designs by slipping a stitch from one color to a future row.  The West Village Cardigan for children for example (below), uses three types of slipped stitches, one in a single color on the body and multi color slip stitch motifs on the hem and cuffs. 

In either single or multi color slip stitch, when you slip a stitch up more than one row, you will compress the fabric, making it denser with more rows to an inch than you would get without slipping the stitches.  These type of slip stitch patterns are designed to manipulate the stitches to create a highly textured fabric. 

The second application, involves keeping the row gauge the same, and does not pull a stitch up to another row.  It is used as an easy way to work Fair Isle.  When working Fair Isle, the stich is slipped with yarn in back.   You can work any Fair Isle pattern as written by working with only one color at a time.  You work each round twice:  first you work it in the first color of the first square on the chart, knitting only those colored stitches and slipping the stitches on the chart that are in the second color.  Then you drop the first color, pick up the second color and work that round again, slipping the stitches that you just worked on the previous go around.  If you are working flat, back and forth in rows, work on circular needles so you can slide the work back to the beginning to begin knitting the same row again in the second color.  

One word of caution however, you will not be able to catch long floats with this technique, so look over the charts before you begin to make sure the colors change frequently.  If you have sections of only one color that are 1" or more, you want to avoid this way. 

You will also still need to spread your stitches out to keep the floats on the back from pulling tightly.  This method is fun to do, but doesn't solve all of the tension and disappearing stitch problems of traditional Fair Isle knitting.  It can make your Fair Isle a little more uniform and yarn more manageable.  It's a great way to work your first Fair Isle piece.

Overall, slip stitch knitting is easy enough for beginners to do, and when I was designing Plectics, I almost classified this Easy.  It’s definitely a good sweater for a confident beginner. It uses single color slip stitch at the cuffs and hem, and multi color slip stitch at the yoke.  It's a fun and fast pullover!

Traveler's Sweater (below) uses one color throughout and you can see the amazing texture that this particular slip stitch pattern creates.  This fabric is denser, with more rows per inch than Stockinette stitch. 

To try this fun way of knitting, look for patterns specifically designed with slip stitch patterns, or try any Fair Isle pattern and work it using only one color at a time (remember to work each round twice; once in each color). 

It is a wonderful knitting option for knitters who suffer from tendinitis or arm pain from knitting since you keep everything light.  You don't want to pull stitches tightly when you are knitting or purling them after a slipped stitch, because you want that strand that runs behind (or in front of) the slipped stitch to lie flat.   For this reason, it's helpful to keep your tension a little on the loose side, especially if you tend to be a tight knitter.  

It is also a great way to create a sweater you can be proud of if you struggle with even tension.  The slipped stitches tend to mask any guttering or rowing out that can be visible in stockinette stitch. Of course striving for even tension is the best solution in your knitting.  But try slip stitch and you may be pleasantly surprised at how good your knitting looks when you're finished.   Just another reason why slip stitch knitting is good for beginner-intermediate knitters.  

References:

​Gonzalez, Leslie.  “Slip Stitch Knitting Redux.” Cast On Aug – Oct 2014: pp. 10-12.

Hiatt, June Hemmons.  The Principles of Knitting.  New York, NY:  Simon & Schuster, 1988.

Stanley, Montse.  The Handknitter’s Handbook.  Newton Abbot, Devon:  David & Charles Publishers, Inc.,  1986.    Distributed in US (New York, NY) by Sterling Publishing Co, Inc.

Walker, Barbara.  A Treasury of Knitting Patterns.  New York, NY:  Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1968.

The Three Needle Bind Off Purlwise allows you to use 3-needle BO with Reversed Stockinette or Garter stitch, where your purl stitches are on the right side of your garment.  This creates a seam that blends in nicely with the purl stitches and is hardly noticeable.

You can read the step-by-step instructions below or watch the video [click here].

How to work the Three Needle Bind Off Purlwise:

1.  The setup is the same as regular three needle bind off.  With the right sides held together (we’re working with Reversed Stockinette so we want the purl sides together), needle tips pointing in the same direction, and same number of sts on each needle, insert 3rd needle knitwise into the first stitch on the front needle.  Leave it on the needle.
 
2.  Wrap yarn counterclockwise around 3rd needle tip to bring the yarn in front.  (You’re setting up a purl stitch and you always bring your yarn forward before you purl.)  Insert 3rd needle purlwise into the first stitch on the back needle and purl this stitch.  Let it fall from the back needle.
 
3.  Take the yarn clockwise around 3rd needle tip to the back of your work.  Lift the front knit st that is being held open, over the st that you just purled and off the needle.  You have 1 st on the 3rd needle.  Do these steps again and you'll have 2 sts on the 3rd needle.  

4.  Lift 2nd st over 1st st and off.   Continue until all stitches have been bound off.  

What we’re doing is knitting the stitches on the front needle and purling the stitches on the back needle.  You bring your yarn forward before purling, then bring it to the back before knitting.    
 
For the front, go into the stitch as if to knit.
For the back, yarn forward, purl the st, yarn back.
Lift the knit stitch held open over the purled st.
Bind off one stitch.
 
This creates such a nice seam that blends in nicely to purl stitches.   I hope you find it useful.  Many knitters love to join shoulders with the three needle bind off.  It is a convenient way to end your work and join the front and back at the same time.  With so many cable patterns using reversed stockinette as a background stitch for the cabling, there are many times where you end up with lots of purled stitches around the shoulders.  Patterns will have you bind off and seam, which has its own advantages (stronger, more stable seam, etc.), but the Three Needle Bind Off Purlwise gives you another option that is fun to do, looks great and saves time.  I hope you enjoy it!